KEMA Column
"I got a perm, but it fell out in two weeks," or "The curls looked great at the salon, but they just look frizzy when I style them myself." We often hear these kinds of concerns about perms. It’s disappointing to spend your time and money only to end up unhappy with the results.
But don't give up just yet. In many cases where people feel their "perm has fallen out," the curls haven't actually disappeared—you just aren't bringing them out. In this article, we'll briefly cover how perms work, then walk you through how to wash, dry, and style your hair to keep those curls looking great for longer.
What you will learn in this article
- The mechanism of a perm and the real reasons why it might feel like it "fell out"
- How to handle your hair from the day of the perm up to 48 hours later
- Washing, drying, and styling techniques to make curls last
- Care differences between cold perms and digital perms
Contents
- Understanding how perms work in 30 seconds
- It hasn't "fallen out"—it just hasn't been brought out
- How to spend the first 48 hours after your perm
- Washing: Hair elasticity is the foundation of your curls
- Drying: Don't rub, lift instead
- Styling: Bring them back with water, define with serum
- Care differences between cold and digital perms
- Common habits to avoid
- Frequently asked questions
Understanding how perms work in 30 seconds
Your hair's shape is maintained by various "bonds" inside the hair shaft. A perm is a technique that uses these bonds to change the shape of your hair.
1The first solution breaks the bonds
The first perm solution breaks the internal bonds of your hair, leaving it in a soft state where the shape can be altered.
2Creating the curl shape with rods
Your hair is wrapped around rods to set it into the desired curl shape.
3The second solution reconnects the bonds
The second solution reconnects these broken bonds while your hair is in the curl shape. This allows the curls to remain even after the rods are removed.
The key point is that it takes some time for these reconnected bonds to fully stabilize. That is why how you spend the first 1 to 2 days after your perm is extremely important.
It hasn't "fallen out"—it just hasn't been brought out
There are three main reasons why it might feel like your perm has fallen out prematurely.
Reason 1: You aren't recreating the curls through your drying or styling
Permed curls have a deep relationship with the moisture in your hair. For example, standard perms (cold perms) are characterized by having tighter curls when wet, which loosen as they dry. If you dry your hair while pulling on it or blow-dry it until it's bone-dry, you might be setting those curls in a stretched-out state.
Reason 2: Lack of hair elasticity
Curls are supported by the hair's natural "spring-like" elasticity. If damage from hair dye or heat styling has caused the proteins inside your hair to leach out, this spring weakens, making the curls prone to drooping.
Reason 3: Curls are being stretched by weight
Applying too much heavy oil or conditioner can pull the curls downward, causing them to stretch out. This also happens naturally as your hair grows longer.
Of course, depending on your hair type, it is also possible that the perm simply didn't take very strongly. If you try the methods introduced here and your curls still don't appear, please consult your salon as soon as possible. Many salons offer a follow-up period for touch-ups.
How to spend the first 48 hours after your perm
During this period, when the bonds have not yet fully stabilized, the most important thing is "not to interfere with the shape of the curls."
- Avoid shampooing on the day of the perm: If your stylist gave you specific instructions, prioritize those.
- Don't tie your hair tightly or use pins: Marks from hair ties or pins can become permanent kinks. Try to avoid tucking your hair behind your ears as well.
- Dry your hair immediately if it gets wet: If your hair gets wet from rain or sweat, it will dry in the shape of the disturbance, ruining the curl.
- Do not straighten with a flat iron: Heat will stretch the curls and cause them to loosen.
Washing: Hair elasticity is the foundation of your curls
Now, let's talk about daily care, starting with how to wash your hair. Keep these three points in mind when shampooing permed hair:
- Don't rub; wash with foam: Rubbing your hair together causes friction, which increases damage and makes curls prone to tangling. Lather the shampoo in your palms and wash focusing on the scalp using the pads of your fingers.
- Apply conditioner to the mid-lengths and ends only: Using too much will weigh down the curls and cause them to stretch.
- Nurture the "spring" in your hair: Incorporate care that replenishes protein to maintain the elasticity that supports your curls.
At KEMA, our "Crema Shampoo," a protein shampoo designed to leave hair with body and elasticity, and our "Pre-Treatment," ideal for hair that struggles to hold waves or curls, are perfect for creating the foundation for permed hair.
KEMA Pre-Treatment
For hair that has lost body and bounce due to damage and struggles to hold waves or curls. Formulated with protein-rich ingredients, it adds shine and elasticity while keeping the hair light.
¥9,570 (tax included)
KEMA Crema Shampoo
Replenishes four types of protein while washing. A low-irritation, silicone-free protein shampoo that leaves hair with body and elasticity.
¥9,020 (tax included)
Drying: Don't rub, lift instead
How you dry your hair is the biggest factor in the final result of your perm. Are you pulling your hair with your fingers from the top down just like you would for straight hair? That might be the primary reason your curls aren't showing.
1Towel-dry by wrapping and squeezing
Rubbing your hair with a towel will loosen the curls and cause tangles. Wrap your ends in a towel and gently squeeze from the bottom to remove excess water.
2Dry the roots first thoroughly
If the roots remain damp, the top will fall flat, and the curls will look droopy. Insert your fingers into the scalp and blow air while lifting the roots.
3Place ends in your palm and lift
Place the curls in your palm, lift them gently from the bottom, and apply a gentle airflow. The trick is to touch them as little as possible so you don't break the shape. If your hairdryer comes with a diffuser (an attachment that gently spreads the air), be sure to use it.
4Finish with cool air to set the shape
Applying cool air at the end stabilizes the curl shape and helps bring out a natural shine.
Styling: Bring them back with water, define with serum
If your curls look droopy when you wake up, don't worry. Permed curls have the characteristic of being easily reactivated by moisture.
1Use a spray bottle to thoroughly dampen from mid-lengths to ends
The key is to dampen not just the surface, but the hair underneath as well. If you have significant bedhead, dampen from the roots.
2Spread serum in your palms and scrunch into the ends
Work the product in from bottom to top, scrunching the curls into your palms. Apply only a thin layer of whatever is left on your hands to the roots to keep them airy.
3Avoid touching them afterward
If you keep touching your hair while it dries, the curls will loosen and expand. Let it air dry or dry using a gentle airflow while lifting the hair.
When choosing a styling product, select something lightweight that won't weigh down or crush your curls. KEMA's CD Serum is a curl-specific serum created exactly for wavy and permed styles. It is a non-silicone, natural oil-based serum that isn't sticky. It gently wraps your hair while defining the contours of your curls and adding shine. It doesn't get hard after drying, so it's recommended for those who dislike stiff styling products.
Care differences between cold and digital perms
Even though we call them both "perms," there are two main types, and they require opposite care to bring out the best curls. If you don't know the difference, your care might actually be counterproductive, so let's check.
| Cold Perm | Digital Perm (Hot Perm) | |
|---|---|---|
| Characteristics | A standard perm using chemical solutions | A perm that uses both chemicals and heat |
| When curls are strongest | When wet | When dry |
| Drying Tips | Don't overdry. Stop when about 80% dry and finish with serum for a moisturized texture | Curl the ends around your fingers and dry thoroughly while twisting to make curls distinct |
| Ideal result | Airy, light waves | Shiny, iron-curled looking waves |
※These are general trends. Methods and terminology may vary by salon or menu. If you are unsure which type of perm you have, ask your stylist. We recommend asking them for drying tips as well.
Common habits to avoid
Finally, here is a summary of habits that weaken curls. Check to see if you do any of these subconsciously.
| Habit | Why it's bad | What to do instead |
|---|---|---|
| Rubbing with a towel | Curls come undone and friction increases damage | Wrap in a towel and squeeze to remove moisture |
| Brushing dry hair | Curls separate and frizz out | Use a wide-tooth comb only when wet. Once dry, only finger-comb |
| Drying while pulling | Curls set in a stretched-out shape | Place in your palm and lift while drying |
| Applying too much heavy oil | Weight causes curls to stretch | Apply an appropriate amount of light serum |
| Straightening with an iron daily | Heat damage causes curls to loosen | Only straighten on days you want a sleek look and use heat-protection products |
Frequently asked questions
How long does a perm last?
It varies significantly based on hair type, perm type, curl intensity, and daily care, so it's hard to say. Generally, it is often said to last 1–3 months. Use the care methods introduced in this article to enjoy them for as long as possible.
I don't have time for styling in the morning.
Thoroughly drying your roots the night before is the ultimate time-saver. In the morning, you only need to dampen with a spray bottle and scrunch in some serum. Once you get used to it, it only takes a few minutes.
Is there anything I should be careful about when sleeping?
The basic rule is to sleep only after your hair is thoroughly dry. If your hair is long, loosely tying it up high can help prevent the curls from being crushed by friction against your pillow. Use a soft scrunchie so you don't get tied-up marks.
Can I get a perm and hair color on the same day?
To consider the burden on your hair and scalp, it is generally recommended to leave at least one week between appointments. Consult your stylist about which one to do first.
What should I do when the perm starts to fade?
First, try the basic styling of wetting the hair and scrunching in serum. If that’s still not enough, you can lightly add curls to just the ends with a curling iron. If you choose to get a re-perm, conditioning your hair beforehand will help the quality of the next perm's finish.
Summary: Curls are something you "nurture"
A perm's completion isn't the moment you leave the salon. On the day you get it, don't disturb the shape; keep your hair elastic with your daily washing routine; and when drying, don't pull—lift. Finally, in the morning, bring them back with water and set with serum. Once you master this flow, your curls will become surprisingly easy to manage.
Even if you thought "perms just aren't for me," please try revisiting your drying and styling techniques once more. You'll surely be able to recreate that salon-quality look at home.
To enjoy your curls even more
From curl serum to shampoo that supports your hair's elasticity. Take a look at the KEMA lineup.
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