KEMA Column
Have you ever experienced hair that looks sleek and well-behaved only on the days you get it dried at a hair salon, even though you use the same shampoo and treatment at home? That difference isn't just because of special tools or expensive products. One of the biggest reasons is "how you dry it."
Hair has a property of "remembering" its state the moment it dries. In other words, the time you spend with a hair dryer isn't just about evaporating moisture; it's the time that determines how your hair will look that day. In this article, I will carefully explain everything from pre-drying preparations to the sequence, how to direct the airflow, and finishing touches, along with the reasons behind them, so that even those without beauty expertise can start trying them out tonight.
What you will learn in this article
- Why the way you dry your hair changes the finish
- 3 preparations you should do before drying
- 6 steps to dry your hair without damaging it
- Tips for different hair types and styles, and common bad habits to avoid
Table of Contents
Why does "how you dry" change your hair?
There are two main reasons. Both become clear once you understand the structure of your hair.
Reason 1: Wet hair is extremely delicate
The surface of your hair is covered with a thin, scale-like membrane called the cuticle. When dry, these scales close tightly to protect the inside of the hair, but when it contains water, the entire hair swells, making the scales prone to opening.
Hair with open scales is vulnerable to friction. If you vigorously rub your wet hair with a towel or press it against a pillow while wet, the cuticles are more likely to peel or break. Therefore, it is important to keep the time your hair is wet as short as possible and to handle it gently while it is wet.
Reason 2: Hair "remembers" its shape the moment it dries
The shape of your hair is maintained by bonds called "hydrogen bonds" inside the hair. These bonds have the property of breaking when wet and reforming when they dry.
This is why bedhead that won't go away with just your hands can be fixed by wetting it and drying it again. By wetting it, you reset the bonds, and by drying it in a neat shape, you reform those bonds in that shape.
3 reasons why air-drying is not recommended
Some people think, "The heat from a hair dryer seems bad for hair, so isn't air-drying gentler?" While I understand the sentiment, we do not recommend air-drying for the following three reasons:
- The hair stays wet for a long time: Your hair remains in a defenseless state with its cuticles open, subject to constant friction from clothes and pillows.
- The scalp stays damp: If the scalp remains damp for a long time, it can easily lead to stickiness and odors.
- It dries without being set: This leads to frizz, unwanted volume, and bedhead. You will end up spending extra time styling it the next morning.
Of course, keeping high-temperature air close to your hair for too long will also strain it. What is important is not "whether to use a hair dryer or not," but "how you use it." As long as you are careful about how you apply the heat, drying your hair quickly is considered better for your hair.
3 preparations before drying
Whether or not you can dry your hair beautifully is actually largely determined before you even pick up the dryer. There are three key points.
1Towel dry by "pressing and patting," not rubbing
Use the pads of your fingers to gently press through the towel to remove moisture from the scalp. For the ends, sandwich them between the towel and pat them dry. Keep going until water no longer drips from your hair. Being thorough here shortens drying time and reduces the duration your hair is exposed to heat.
2Detangle from the ends with a wide-toothed comb
If you dry your hair while it's tangled, the airflow will cause more knots and pulling, leading to breakage. Use a wide-toothed comb or your fingers to detangle the ends first, gradually working your way up. Wet hair stretches and breaks easily, so avoid pulling with force.
3Apply leave-in treatment
This is an essential step to protect your hair from the heat of the dryer and the friction during drying. Apply it mainly from the mid-lengths to the ends, where damage is more likely, by spreading it well on your palms before working it in. Avoid the roots as it can cause stickiness or make your hair go flat.
Within the KEMA lineup, the following two are particularly suitable for pre-drying care:
KEMA Penta S Oil
A "heat-responsive oil" to be applied before using hair dryers or irons. The natural oil-derived coating protects your hair from heat. Despite being an oil, it is not sticky, making it great even for those with thin or soft hair.
¥5,940 (tax included)
KEMA Miracle Bond Balm
Repairs the inside with a complex amino acid blend of keratin, silk, and collagen, and coats the outside with camellia and jojoba oils. A high-repair leave-in treatment for hair dried out by coloring or perms.
¥4,290 (tax included)
When in doubt, use "Penta S Oil" if you have thin hair and want to maintain lightness, or "Miracle Bond Balm" if you are concerned about dryness or split ends.
6 steps to dry your hair without damage
Once prepared, it's finally time to use the dryer. Just changing the order can change the finish and the time it takes.
1Start by drying the "roots"
The roots and scalp, where hair is dense, are the hardest parts to dry. Conversely, the ends will dry on their own. If you start from the ends, they will be over-dried and frizzy by the time the roots are dry. Insert your fingers into the hair, move them back and forth to gently rub the scalp, and direct the airflow to the roots.
2Do bangs and face-framing hair early
Bangs and face-framing hair are fine and dry quickly, and they are also prone to developing habits. Before they dry naturally, style them early. For bangs, move your fingers through the roots while blowing air from both the right and left to prevent your part from splitting wide open.
3Direct airflow "from top to bottom"
The cuticle scales overlap from the roots toward the ends. By holding the dryer higher than your head and blowing air from root to tip, the scales will align beautifully, making your hair look shiny. Blowing from below will make the scales lift, causing frizz and dryness.
4Keep the dryer at a distance and shake it
The distance from your hair should be about 15–20 cm. Shake the dryer back and forth so that the heat doesn't concentrate in one spot. If it feels "hot," that's a sign that you are too close.
5When 80% dry, style the mid-lengths and ends
Once the hair is about 80% dry, use your fingers to gently pull the hair downward while directing air from above to the mid-lengths and ends. Pulling gently helps straighten out waves and makes the hair easier to manage. Since the ends dry easily, passing the airflow over them at the end is sufficient.
6Finish with a "cool shot"
Hair immediately after hot-air drying has not yet settled into its shape. Applying cool air to the whole head removes excess heat, stabilizes the shape, and adds shine and manageability. Also, it's hard to tell if hair is dry while it's hot. Using the cool shot makes it easier to notice any damp spots.
Tips by hair type and style
While the 6 basic steps are the same, there are points to be mindful of depending on your hair type or style. Please refer to the one closest to your needs.
For those concerned about kinks, waves, and frizz
If the roots remain damp, waves will appear over time. Priority #1 is drying the roots thoroughly. Carefully execute step 5 ("pulling gently while blowing from above") and always finish with cool air.
For those with thin hair that goes flat
Dry the hair by brushing the roots in the opposite direction of your usual part to create lift. Looking down and blowing air from the back of the head forward is also effective. Use only a small amount of leave-in treatment on the ends only; too much will cause your hair to fall flat.
For permed/wavy styles
After drying the roots, hold the ends in your palm and use a low-airflow setting while lifting from below. Be careful not to pull or rub with your fingers, as this will loosen the curls.
For long hair or thick hair
Split your hair into two sections, top and bottom. Clip up the top section and dry the inner hair first; this prevents damp patches and actually shortens the overall time.
For short hair or bobs
Dry the back of the head by running your hand underneath and lifting to create roundness. For areas around the crown (the sides of the head that tend to stick out), gently press down with your hand while applying air to help it lay flat.
Common bad habits and what to do instead
Because it's a daily ritual, unconscious habits may be placing a burden on your hair. Check to see if any of these apply to you.
| Common habit | Why it's not good | What to do instead |
|---|---|---|
| Rubbing with a towel | Wet hair has open cuticles and is weak against friction | Sandwich with a towel and press |
| Leaving a towel wrapped for a long time | Both hair and scalp remain wet for too long | Start drying as soon as you exit the bath |
| Drying from the ends | Ends over-dry while roots remain damp | Dry from the roots |
| Holding the dryer close and static | High heat concentrates on that area | Keep 15–20cm distance and move the dryer |
| Blowing from below | Cuticles lift, causing frizz | Blow from top to bottom |
| Sleeping with semi-dry hair | Causes friction with the pillow, bedhead, and scalp stickiness | Use cool air to check for dry spots before bed |
Finishing touches after drying
Once thoroughly dry, do one final small step. Applying a small amount of oil or balm to dried hair not only smoothes the surface for shine but also protects the hair from dryness in the air and friction.
The secret is to start with an amount so small you think, "Is this too little?" For Penta S Oil, spread 1–2 drops thoroughly over your palms, then apply to the ends, followed by the mid-lengths. Using the residue left on your hands to gently smooth the surface of your hair is enough.
For those who dislike the texture of oil or have thin hair that tends to get weighed down, a lightweight leave-in balm is also recommended.
On days you use a hair iron
The iron rule is to use irons or curlers only after your hair is completely dry. Applying a high-temperature plate to wet or semi-dry hair causes the moisture inside the hair to heat up instantly, placing a significant burden on the hair. You can read more about heat damage from irons in this article.
Frequently Asked Questions
About how many minutes should it take to dry?
It varies greatly depending on hair length and volume, so I can't give a definitive "number of minutes." The best way to shorten the time is thorough towel-drying. Even just following the order of drying from the roots can make a noticeable difference.
Is it better for the hair to dry only with cool air, avoiding hot air?
Using only cool air takes too long, keeping your hair wet for an extended period. We believe the most realistic and gentle approach is to dry quickly with hot air and finish with a blast of cool air.
Even if I dry it well at night, it flips out in the morning.
If the roots are left damp, it's easier for habits to form while you sleep. If it still flips out in the morning, don't just wet the ends—wet the roots of the flipped section and re-dry; it's much easier to fix.
Should I apply oil before or after drying?
Both have their roles. Before drying is to protect from heat and friction; after drying is for shine and manageability. If you do both, be careful not to over-apply; make the pre-dry application the main one and use only a tiny amount after.
Do I need an expensive hair dryer to dry my hair beautifully?
High-airflow dryers have the benefit of shorter drying times. However, before changing your tools, try reviewing your drying technique. Changing the order and the direction of the airflow can improve the finish even with your current dryer.
Conclusion ─ Drying time is hair styling time
Gently remove moisture before drying, and apply something to protect your hair. Dry from the roots, and blow air from top to bottom. Finish by cooling to set the shape. Each step is small, but because you repeat them daily, you will see a difference in the feel of your hair in just a few weeks.
Before buying new products, just try changing the sequence tonight. Your usual dryer time will transform into time spent properly styling your hair.
The pre-dry touch, with KEMA
Oil to protect from heat, balm to repair from within. Choose the one that suits your hair type.
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