KEMA Column
The term "CMC" occasionally pops up during hair treatment explanations or conversations at beauty salons. While most people have a vague impression that it is something good for their hair, not many can actually explain what it is.
In reality, however, CMC is deeply related to common hair concerns such as "hair becoming dry and brittle again shortly after treatment" or "hair color fading quickly." As the second installment in our ingredient explanation series, following our previous piece on "Liposomes," this article breaks down what CMC is in as simple terms as possible, without requiring specialized knowledge.
What you will learn in this article
- What CMC is and where it is located in the hair
- The two roles of CMC: as a "glue" and as a "pathway"
- The four causes of CMC loss and how it affects your hair
- How to approach daily care with CMC in mind
Table of Contents
- What is CMC? Simply put, it's "hair glue"
- First, a review of hair structure
- The two roles of CMC
- The four causes of CMC loss
- What happens when CMC decreases?
- Simple self-check
- CMC care philosophy: "Protect" and "Replenish"
- Protein care and CMC care: Two sides of the same coin
- Frequently Asked Questions
What is CMC? Simply put, it's "hair glue"
CMC stands for "Cell Membrane Complex." While the name sounds complicated, its role is quite simple.
Hair is made up of many tiny cells combined together. CMC is a very thin layer composed of lipids and proteins that fills the gaps between these cells. It acts as the "glue" that holds the cells together.
Think of a brick wall. No matter how many bricks you stack, if there is no mortar (the joint filler) to fill the gaps, the wall will easily collapse. In hair, the bricks are the "cells" and the mortar is the "CMC." Although CMC represents only a tiny fraction of the hair, it is essential for holding the hair structure together.
First, a review of hair structure
To understand where CMC is located, let's look at the structure of hair, often compared to a "sushi roll." It is composed of three parts, from the outside in.
| Part | Sushi Roll Analogy | Role |
|---|---|---|
| Cuticle | Nori (Seaweed) | A thin, scale-like layer covering the surface. It consists of overlapping layers that protect the interior and determines shine and texture. |
| Cortex | Rice | The main bulk of the hair, consisting of protein fiber bundles. It determines hair strength, flexibility, and color. |
| Medulla | Filling | The core part at the center of the hair. |
CMC is present between the scales of the cuticle, between the cuticle and the cortex, and between the cells of the cortex. In other words, it fills every gap from the surface to the interior, keeping the entire hair strand together.
The two roles of CMC
CMC has two major roles.
Role 1: The "glue" that binds cells together
The first is the role of glue mentioned earlier. When CMC is intact, the cuticle scales overlap tightly and are less likely to peel. Hair with a well-maintained cuticle reflects light beautifully, giving it shine and a smooth texture.
Role 2: The "pathway" for moisture and nutrients
The second role is that of a pathway. Moisture, treatment ingredients, and color or perm agents are thought to travel primarily through this CMC layer when entering or exiting the hair.
In short, hair with healthy CMC is better at retaining moisture and absorbing treatments. Conversely, if the CMC is damaged, it becomes difficult for the hair to hold onto the moisture and nutrients you've carefully replenished.
The four causes of CMC loss
Despite its important role, CMC is unfortunately very delicate and easily lost. The main causes are the following four:
- Coloring, Bleaching, and Perms: Alkaline agents used in these procedures open the cuticle to act on the interior. During this process, CMC components are easily washed away.
- Heat: Excessive use of high-temperature irons, curling wands, or hair dryers puts a strain on the hair structure.
- UV Rays: Ultraviolet rays can also damage the surface and internal components of the hair over time.
- Daily Washing and Friction: Harsh shampoos, vigorous scrubbing, or friction from towels and pillows. While each may seem small, they accumulate daily to cause damage.
Furthermore, it is important to know that unlike skin, hair does not have the ability to repair itself. Once CMC is lost, it does not naturally regenerate. This is why both "protecting it from further loss" and "replenishing what has been lost from the outside" are crucial.
What happens when CMC decreases?
Imagine a brick wall where the mortar has eroded. The bricks become wobbly and unstable, and rain and wind enter through the gaps. The same happens to your hair.
- Dryness and brittleness: The hair can no longer retain moisture inside.
- Loss of shine and rough texture: The cuticle is more likely to lift or peel.
- Increased split ends and breakage: The bonds between cells weaken, making the hair prone to splitting.
- Faster color fading: Dye can easily leak out through the gaps.
- Treatments don't last: The hair becomes unable to retain the nutrients replenished by treatments.
Simple self-check
Although you cannot see CMC, you can gauge its condition from the state of your hair. How many of the following apply to you?
Checklist
- I regularly get hair color or perms.
- I use an iron or curling wand almost every day.
- Treatments work well on the day of, but return to being dry in a few days.
- I feel like my hair color fades faster than before.
- My ends look white and dry, with increased split ends and breakage.
- My hair has lost its shine compared to before.
The more items that apply, the higher the likelihood that your CMC has been lost. However, there is no need to feel discouraged. The next section introduces care you can start today.
CMC care philosophy: "Protect" and "Replenish"
Protect: Preventing further loss
Start by protecting the CMC you currently have. This doesn't require anything special, but focuses on reviewing your daily habits.
- Wash your hair gently with lukewarm water around 38°C (100°F) without scrubbing.
- After washing, do not leave it wet; dry it immediately.
- Apply heat-protective products before using a hair dryer or iron.
- Do not use excessive heat on your iron and avoid applying it to the same spot repeatedly.
- On sunny days, use a hat or parasol to prevent UV damage.
Replenish: Delivering what is lost from the outside
The other approach is to use products that focus on CMC. Some hair care products contain ingredients (often called "CMC-like ingredients") that have similar functions to the lipids and proteins that make up CMC, such as ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.
KEMA offers a product called "KEMA CMC." This is a professional-grade gel treatment developed to protect hair from chemical damage (perms/coloring) and heat damage (irons). It acts like a thin protective film enveloping the hair and is characterized by its non-sticky, quick-absorbing gel texture.
The versatility of KEMA CMC is part of its charm. Choose the method that best fits your lifestyle and hair condition.
1For daily care
After shampooing, apply the gel to damp hair, let it sit for 2–3 minutes, and rinse.
2For intensive care
When damage is a concern, apply after shampooing and let it sit for 5–15 minutes before rinsing.
3As a leave-in treatment
Apply a small amount to damp hair before blow-drying.
4Mixed with shampoo
Mix CMC with your shampoo in a 1:1 ratio in your palm before applying. It elevates your usual shampooing to a superior level.
Protein care and CMC care: Two sides of the same coin
Think back to the brick wall again. For a sturdy wall, it’s not enough to have just good mortar; the bricks themselves must also be sound.
The cells acting as the "bricks" in your hair are primarily made of a protein called keratin. Repeated coloring and ironing cause this protein to leak out, leaving the interior hollow. In other words, damaged hair often has both "bricks" and "mortar" that are depleted.
Therefore, protein care and CMC-focused care only exert their full power when used together, not just one or the other. At KEMA, the Crema Shampoo, which replenishes four types of proteins while washing, is the center of our protein care. If you use the "1:1 mix with shampoo" method mentioned earlier, you can incorporate both types of care simultaneously in a single wash.
KEMA Crema Shampoo
A protein shampoo that replenishes four types of proteins (keratin, silk, collagen, wheat) while washing. Silicone-free and low-irritation formula.
¥9,020 (tax included)
KEMA Crema Treatment Black
A high-moisture treatment that combines proteins, amino acids, and natural oils to hydrate the interior while smoothing the cuticle.
¥11,990 (tax included)
Frequently Asked Questions
Are CMC and ceramide the same thing?
They are not the same. CMC is the name of the "structure" inside the hair, while ceramide is one of the lipid components that form the CMC. If the CMC is the mortar, ceramide is one of its "ingredients."
How is it different from the "Liposome" mentioned in a previous article?
Liposomes are a "capsule technology" for delivering beauty ingredients. CMC, on the other hand, is a "structure" that hair naturally possesses. It is easy to think of it as a delivery technology versus the destination structure. You can read more about liposomes in this article.
Does CMC grow back once it's lost?
Since hair does not have the ability to repair itself, lost CMC does not return to normal on its own. This is why it is essential to continue replenishing it through care and protecting it to prevent further loss.
Can I use KEMA CMC every day?
Yes, you can use it as part of your daily care. Choose the method that is easiest for you to maintain, such as letting it sit for 2–3 minutes after shampooing or mixing it with your shampoo.
If I get salon treatments, is home care unnecessary?
Salon care significantly improves the state of your hair. However, hair is constantly exposed to daily washing, heat, and friction. Home care plays the role of maintaining the state achieved in the salon until your next visit. Combining both is ideal.
Summary: The invisible "glue" that supports hair beauty
CMC is a small but vital component—it acts as the "glue" binding hair cells together and serves as a "pathway" for moisture and nutrients. It is gradually lost due to coloring, perms, heat, UV rays, and daily friction, and does not return naturally. Therefore, it is important to continue both "protecting" and "replenishing" in your daily care routine.
KEMA values the concept of "designing beauty from the structure." Rather than just making the surface look nice, we refine the invisible internal structure. Learning about CMC is the first step. The next time you choose a treatment, consider whether you are caring for the "bricks" or the "mortar," and your approach might change for the better.
Hair care that starts from the structure
From CMC care to protein care. Explore the KEMA lineup.
View KEMA Products
